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GOAT A|iD VEST SYSTEffl 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 










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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



®|aji..A..-. ©opipig^t "f 0, 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 





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The 




Arvidson Coat 



AND 



Vest System. 



A Scientific and Practical Short Measure System 
for Cutting Coats and Vests. 



p. N. ARVIDSON, Author and Publisher. 



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KALAMAZOO, 
MICHIGAN. 



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Copyright. 1891, by P. N. Arvidson. 



Ihling Bros. & Everard, Printers. 

KALAMAZOO, MICH. 



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PREFACE. 



I N placing this work on Garment Cutting before the Tailoring Fraternity, I 
do so with the firm belief, that any one who will study this System care- 
fully, will be amply rewarded for the small amount of money expended in pro- 
curing the same. 

I will say here that I am a practical Tailor and Cutter, and have made 
cutting my study for the last fourteen years. 

I think and believe that this work for practical use and simplicity stands 
ahead of any system now published ; and that any Practical Cutter after a 
thorough examination of my draughts will verify my statement. 

Hoping that by this work I may smooth the road of many Struggling Cutters 
to Success, and benefit the Fraternity at large. 

I remain, yours truly, 

P. N. ARVIDSON. 



4 ARVI DSON COAT AND VEST SY STEM. 



THE MEASURES. 

'T'AKE full length of waist and coat, also width of back and length of sleeve over the coat. 
Remove the coat and place measuring square in position, as illustrated in Figure i. 

Strap the belt around the waist as shown in Figures i and 2. Mark center front of breast 
and waist 5 and 6, Figure i. Hold j'our square in position and be sure the plumb is on the 
center of arm extending downward ; now note where the square crosses the tape at natural waist 
(at 4) and see how many inches you have from 3 to 4. Figure 2. 

Also mark at the side of hip as designated at 8. Now press the rear end of square over 
the blade and mark above at 2, Figure 2. Then take hold of tape attached to the square and 
measure over front shoulder, (Figure i) to socket bone as at Figure 2, 12 inches (This is com- 
monly called the strop measure). 

Carry the tape over the shoulder down to 2, 17^ inches, now take the blade measure with 
the square from the front of the arm to the center of the back, Figure 2, ii^^ inches. 

Call off the back waist measure on belt from 4 to 3, Figure 2, 8}4 inches. 

Take the hip measure from 8 to 9, Figure 2, gyi inches. 

Now take the front breast measure with the square from 7 to 5, Figure i, 8 inches. 

Then front waist from 4 to 6, Figure i, 9 inches. Press the upper end of the square from 
7 upward, against the front shoulder and mark back of the square as shown by a star on front 
shoulder in Figure i. 

Measure from the star on the shoulder to center front of neck, Figure i, 5 inches. 

Measure around the neck over the Vest where the collar seam should be, 15 inches. 

Take the depth of scye from i to 2, Figure 2, 9 inches, continue on to natural waist 3, 
Figure 2, 16 inches. Take scye measure around the arm, 17 inches. 

All measures should be taken fair, neither tight nor loose. In this system as in any other 
much depends upon ones accuracy in taking the measures which will save a great deal of worry 
and inconvenience. 

The measures should read as follows, viz. 



Strop measure 12 

Breast measure 8 

Front Waist measure g 
Blade ii>^ 

Full length of Sleeve 30^^ 
From Star on shoulder 

to center front of neck 5 
Hip measure gj4 

Natural Waist 16 





INCHES. 


Full length of Waist 
Full length of Coat 
Over Shoulder 
Width of Back 


i8>4 
33 

7/2 


Scye measure 

Back Waist measure 


17 


Depth of Scye 
Around the Neck 


9 

15 



6 ARVI DSON COAT AND VEST SY STEM. 

(DIAGRAM I.) 

THE DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK. 

HE measures are as follows : 



T 



INCHES, 


INCHED 


lS% 


Back Waist measure 8yi 


38 


Hip measure g}^ 


VA 


Breast measure 8 


30/2 


Front Waist measure 9 


9 


Scye measure 17 


16 


From Star on Shoulder 


15 


to center front of neck 5 


17/2 


Around the neck 15 



Full length of Waist 
Full length of Coat 
Width of Back 
Full length of Sleeve 
Depth of Scye 
Natural Waist 
Strop measure 
Over Shoulder 
Blade measure 

Begin by drawing lines from i to 19 and from i to 30, from i to 2 is the depth of scye g 
inches and i/^ inch added in all cases. Continue to 3 natural waist 16 inches and }^ of an inch 
added. Then to 4, full length of waist, 183^ inches. 

Square out from 2, 3 and 4 ; from 2 to 22, width of back yyi inches ; from 2 to 7 is blade 
measure, ii}4 inches and 1 yi inches added in all cases 

Square up from 22 and up and down from 7, from 7 to 10 is 8 inches. This measure is 
taken from front of scye to center front of breast. 

From II to 12 is g inches front waist measure. 

From 7 to g is 5 inches. This measure is taken from star on front shoulder to center 
front of neck. (See Figure i.) 

From 9 back to 8 is 2}4 inches, this is yi of the diameter of the neck. The circumference 
of neck in this case is 15 inches, 5 inches is the diameter and 21^2 inches is •/{. of the diameter of 
the neck. 

Square up from 8 and g, from i to 15 is 2}4 inches, the distance between 8 and 9. Go up 
from 15 to 16 J4 inch. From 22 to 23 is }i of scye measure 17 inches on thirds of the square. 

From 23 down to notch is 1-12 of scye measure. From 23 to 24 is 2}( inches. 

Shape back as represented from i to 16, 23 and 24 down to line 4. Make width of back at 
4 2j^ inches or to fancy. 

Apply strop measure, by placing width of back from i to 15, 2}4 inches on 7 and measure 
up to 17, 12 inches and ^ of an inch added in all cases. Sweep from 17 to 18 by 11. Draw line 
diagonally from 7 up, from 7 to 25 is 8% inches or J^ of scye measure in all cases. 

Draw a line from 18 to 25; now apply width of back shoulder from 16 to 23 to front 
shoulder, from 18 to 25. 

Place the points of a compass on 18 and 19 and mark or sweep gorge by same from 18 
down to 19, or in other words make the depth of the gorge 2^ inches, or the distance from 18 to 
ig in all cases. 

Go down from 25 to 26, ^ of an inch ; now shape shoulder and front as represented. 

From 26 to 18 and from ig down through 10 and 12 adding j^ of an inch to 10 and 12 for a 
D. B. frock. Now draw a line from half way between 7 and 22 down through 13. Take out at 
13, ^ of an inch or }( of an inch for every inch that the blade is larger than the back waist 
measure, which in this case is 3 inches. 

Apply back waist measure 8}4 inches. Place width of back at 3, 2 1-4 inches on 11, con- 
tinue to 13. Skip over to cross and back to 14, 8yi inches and add lyi inches in all cases. 

Sweep from back to 20 by 24 for length of side body. Lower top of side body from 24, A 
inch and shape your arm hole or scye from 25 to 7 and from 24 to 7. Shape side body as repre- 
sented and reduce same yi inch at blade. 



DIAGRAM i.-D. B. Frock. 




8 ARVI DSON COAT AND VEST SY STEM. 

Sweep from 20 to 21, from one inch back of 18 on shoulder for length of front, shape 
bottom of forepart as represented. 

Draft lapel as illustrated, make width at bottom a'^ inches at breast line 2l^ inches and 
top 2j4 inches or to style or fancy. 

To draft the skirt, extend the line from 27 down, from 11 to 28 is 10 inches in all cases. 

From 28 to 29, hip measure is gj4 inches. 

Square down the front by waist line ; apply length of back iS'^ at 20 down through 29 to 
30, full length 38 inches and yi inch added. Shape back of skirt from 20 down through 29 to 30 
and top of skirt from 20 forward through 21. Shape top of skirt same as the bottom of forepart 
and lapel, draw your skirt line j^ inch below forepart and lapel at front. Get length from 20 to 
30 and apply the same for length of front from lapel down and draw bottom line of skirt as 
represented. 

The back skirt ; go back at 4, 13-4 inches and draw line from i through this point to 5. 
Make width of skirt at bottom same as at tack and finish as illustrated. 



(DIAGRAM 2.) 

SINGLE BREASTED CUTAWAY. 



T 



HE measures are as follows: 



Full length of Waist 
Full length of Coat 
Width of Back 
Full length of sleeve 
Depth of Scye 
Natural Waist 
Strap measure 
Over Shoulder measure 
Blade measure 



INCHES. 


INCHES. 


i8}i 


Back waist measure 


8>^ 


33 


Hip measure 


9>^ 


7>4 


Breast measure 


8 


30^ 


Front Waist measure 


9 


9 


Scye measure 


17 


16 


From star on shoulder 




12 


to center front of neck 


5 


17 H 


Around the Neck 


15 



The Cutaway is drafted the same as Diagram i. 
Add to 10 and 12, ij^ inches for button stand. 

Mark lowest button 41^ inches up from bottom of forepart. Space evenly for 
4 button holes. 

Lower front of skirt 5^ inch from forepart. 
Shape front and skirt as illustrated. 



DIAGRAM 2.— S. B. Cutaway. 




1 



lo ARVIDSON COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. 



(DIAGRAM 3.) 

SINGLE AND DOUBLE BREASTED SACK. 



T 



HE measures are as follows : 



INCHES. 




INCHES. 


IV2 


Back Waist measure 


8>4 


3o>^ 


Hip measure 


9^ 


9 


Breast measure 


8 


i6>< 


Front Waist measure 


9 


30 


Scye measure 


17 


12 


From star on shoulder 




i7>^ 


to center front of neck 


5 


ii>4 


Around the Neck 


13 



Width of Back 

Full length of Sleeve 30^4 

Depth of Scye 

Natural Waist 

Full length of Coat 

Strop measure 

Over Shoulder 

Blade measure 

Draw lines from i to ig and from i to 5. 

From I to 2 is dipth of scye, 9 inches and ^ inch added in all cases. 

Continue to natural waist 16}^ inches and y^ inch added then to 5 full length 30 inch and 
i^ inch added. 

Square out from 2, 3 and 5. 

From 2 to 22 is width of back, 7^ inches. 

From 2 to 7 is blade measure iij^ inches and xy^ inches added in all cases. 

Square up from 22 and up, and down from 7. 

From 7 to 10 is breast measure, 8 inches. 

From II to 12 is front waist measure, 9 inches. 

From 7 to 9 is 5 inches. This measure is taken from star on front shoulder, to center 
front of neck. See Figure i. 

From 9 back to 8 is 2j4 inches. This is Y^ of the diameter of neck. The circumference 
of neck is 15 inches, 5 inches is the diameter and 2}^ inches is ^ the diameter of the neck. 

Square up from 8 and 9, from i to 15 is 2j4 inches, the distance between 8 and 9. 

Go up to 16, y^ inch, from 22 to 23 is Yi of scye, 17 inches on thirds on the square. 

From 22 to notch on back is 1-12 of scye measure. 

From 22 to 24 is 1-12 of scye or fancy. 

Make width of back at bottom J/^ the distance between 2 and 7 or fancy. Hollow back Y^ 
inch at 3. Shape back as illustrated from i to 16, 23 and 24 and down to bottom. 

Now apply strop measure by placing width of back from i to 15, 2^ inches on 7 and 
measure up to 17, 12 inches and yi^ of an inch added in all cases. Sweep from 17 to 18 by 11, 
draw a line diagonally from 7 up. From 7 to 25 is 8^4^ inches, ^ of scye measure in all cases. 
Then draw a line from 18 to 25. 

Now apply width of back shoulder from 16 to 23 to front shoulder from 18 to 25. 

Now place points of a compass on 18 and 19 and mark, or sweep gorge by same from 18, 
down by point 19, or, in other words, make depth of gorge 2j^ inches, the distance between 18 
and 19 in all cases. 

Go down from 25 to 26 ^ of an inch. 

Now shape shoulder from 25 to 18 and gorge. Draw a line from 19 down through 10 and 
12 to 21. Add out from 10 and 12, ij^ inch for a single breasted sack and 3 inches for a 
double breasted sack for button stand. 

Shape front as represented. 

Now place width of back at 3 on point 11 and measure back to 14, 8}^ inches back waist 
measure and 2 inches added in ordinary cases more or less as style or the customer may require. 

From II down to 28 is 10 inches in all cases. 

Now place width of back at 29 on point 28 and measure back to 29, 9^4 inches, hip 
measure' and 1Y2 inches added in all cases. 

Mark top of side body J4 inch forward of points 24 and 22. 

Shape side line through 14, 29 and 20. 

Shape arm scye from 25 to 7 and from top of side body to 7 as illustrated. 

For sack front sweep from 20, Y^ inch below back, to 21 by point 18 and complete draft by 
drawing a line from 20 to 21. 



DIAGRAM 3.— S. and D. B. Sack. 




12 ARV IDSON COAT AND VEST S YSTEM. 

(DIAGRAM 4.) 

THE OVERCOAT. 



T 



INCHES. 




INCHES. 


9y2 


Breast measure 


9 


17^ 


Front Waist 


10 


40 


Scye measure 


19 


13 


Width of Back 


73^ 


18 


Length of Sleeve from 




12 


center back to hand 


31^ 


9^4 


Size of Neck taken 




II 


around and over under 






coat collar 


18 




Measure from star on 






shoulder to center front 






of neck 


sVa 



HE measures are as follows, taken over the undercoat : 



Depth of Sc)'e 
Natural Waist 
Full length of Coat 
Strop measure 
Over Shoulder 
Blade measure 
Back Waist measure 
Hip measure 



Draw lines from i to 19 and from i to 5, from i to 2 is depth of scye, g^A inches and % of 
an inch added in all cases. 

Continue to natural waist 17^ inch and ]^ of an inch added, then to 5 full length 40 inches 
and % of an inch added. 

Square out from i, 2, 3 and 5. 

From 2 to 22 is width of back, 7^^ inches. 

From 2 to 7 is blade measure 12 and ij^ inch added in all cases. 

Square up from 22 and up and down from 7. 

From 7 to star is breast measure, 9 inches. 

From II to star is front waist measure, 10 inches. 

From star to 30 and 31 add 2 inches, go back from 30 to 10 and 31 to 12, 3 inches. 

From 7 to 9 is 6 inches, this measure is taken from star on shoulder to center front of 
neck. See Figure i. From g back to 8 is 3 inches, this is % of the diameter of neck, the cir- 
cumference in this case is 18 inches, 6 inches is the diameter and 3 inches is y^ of the diameter of 
neck measure. 

Square up from 8 and 9, from i to 15 is 3 inches the distance between 8 and g. Go up to 
16 y2 inch. 

From 22 to 23 is y'i of scye 19 inches on thirds of square. 

From 23 to notch is 1-12 of scye measure. 

From 22 to 24 is 1-12 or fancy. 

Make width of back at bottom ^ the distance between 2 and 7 or fancy. Hollow back J/^ 
inch at 3. Shape back as illustrated from i to 16, 23 and 24 down to bottom. 

Now apply strop measure by placing width of back from i to 15, 3 inches on 7 and measure 
up to 17, 13 inches and i/^ of an inch added in all cases. Sweep from 17 to 18 by 11. Draw line 
diagonal from 7 up. From 7 to 25 is gj^ inches J^ of scye measure, in all cases, draw line from 
18 to 25. 

Now apply width of back shoulder from 16 to 23 to front shoulder from 18 to 25. 

Place points of compass on 18 and 19 mark gorge by compass from 18 down by point ig, or 
in other words, make depth of gorge 3 inches or the same distance between 18 and ig in all cases. 

Go down from 25 to 26, % of an inch in all cases. 

Now shape shoulder from 25 to 18 and gorge, draw line from ig down through 10, 12, to 21. 

Shape front as represented, making top of lapel 2)^ inches. Draw front line down 
through 30 and 31 to bottom. 

Now place width of back at 3, on forepart at 11 and measure back to 14, g^ inches and 
2j^ inch added more or less as the customer or style require. 

From II down to 28 is 10 inches in all cases. 

Now place width of back at 29, on 28 and measure back to 29, 1 1 inches and 3 inches 
added in all cases. 

Mark top of side body ]-2 inch forward from 24 and 22. 

Draw side line through 14, 29 and 20. 

Shape arm scj'e from 25 to 7 and from top of side body to 7, as illustrated. 

Sweep for front length from 20 to 21 by point 18 and finish by drawing line from 20 to 21. 



DIAGRAM 4.— The Overcoat. 




14 ARVI DSON COAT AND VEST SY STEM. 

(DIAGRAM 5.) 

SLEEVE. 

ly/l EASURES, width of back 7j4 to elbow and hand 30}^. 

To draft sleeve, the scye or arm hole in this case is 17 inches, begin by drawing line from 
I to 8. 

From I to 2 is 1-12 of 17 or 1-12 on square. 

From I to 4 is 17 on thirds, from 4 to 3 is one inch in all cases. 

Square out from i, 2, 3 and 4. 

From two to 8 is }^ of scye measure, 8^4 inches and }4 inch added in all cases. 

5 is half between 2 and 6, square up and down from 5 by line 2 and 6. 

Sweep from 2 to 6 by 7. 

Square down from 6. 

Apply length of sleeve, by placing width of back yj4 inches on 2, continue to 8 30)^ inches 
and I inch added in all cases. 

Sweep from 8 to g by point 2. 

Make width of sleeve at hand 12 inches or to fancy. 

Now measure arm scye from notch on forepart underarm to notch on back, 8 inches. 

Apply this measure on sleeve from 6 through 7 up to line 2, add i inch. 

Hollow sleeve J^ inch on inside seam and swell }4 inch at elbow and finish sleeve as 
illustrated. 

(DIAGRAM 6.) 

COLLAR. 

IV/\ AKE width of stand of collar i}( inch. 

Make width from stand line from shoulder point to star 1% inches or fancy. 
Finish as illustrated. 



DIAGRAM 5.— Sleeve. 




DIAGRAM 6.— Collar. 




i6 ARVIDSON COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. 



(DIAGRAM 7.) 

THE VEST. 



T 



HE measures are as follows : 



INCHES. INCHES. 

Opening 15 Breast 37 

Full length 25 Waist 33 



Begin by drawing lines i to 3 and 2 to 8. 

Place back of coat pattern in position as illustrated by dropping line on back y^ of an inch 
below line 2 to 8. 

Place breast line of side body and forepart on line 2 to 8 and hold in position. 

Now draw line follow back from i to 4 and 5, deduct i inch from back at 5 and i inch on 
shoulder at 6, also lower shoulder yi inch at 6, lower scye yi inch at 16. 

Shape arm hole and shoulder as represented. 

Go y^ inch forward and back of point 7 for collar stand. 

Apply length of opening from i to 4 and from 7 to top buttonhole, 15 inches and i/^ of an 
inch added for seams at i, 4 and 7. 

Continue to 9, i^y^, inches and ^ of an inch added. 

Square out from 3 to 9. 

From 12 to 13 is 3^ of waist measure, 8^ inches and i inch added in all cases. 

Square up through 13 from 10. 

From 10 to 11 is yi breast, 

Square from back line to 11, go in ^ of an inch from back line to 15. 

From 15 to 14 is y^ of waist measure, 8^ inches and i inch added in all cases. 

Establish point 16 where you like it best or as fancy dictates, curve lines down from i6 
through points 13 and 14 finish by shaping back and front as represented. 

You will find that if you follow these instructions, you will have a good fitting vest every 
time. This applies to every style of figure. 

You can also draft your vest same as coat with equally good result, but I have found it the 
quicker way and fully as sure by drafting as shown in the illustration. 











DIAGRAM 7.- 


The Vest. 














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i8 ARVIDSON COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. 



FULL DRESS COAT. 

'T'HIS coat is drafted the same as the D. B. frock, the measures are apphed the 
same with the exception of the front breast and waist measures. 

You do not add anything to the breast measure, and you deduct i inch from 
the front waist measure. 

Make width of back at tack, and shape of lapel as style or fancy dictates. 

The top and back of skirt is drafted the same as the cutaway skirt, with the 
exception of the top front of skirt being cut 1 1/^ inches instead of i^ inch down 
from front of forepart; draft the bottom of skirt to style or fancy. 



In making up a coat cut by this system, no stretching and pulling is necessary, 
all seams should go smooth and even together; the collar should be put on easy 
and not tight, the front and back seams of sleeve put to front and back notches of 
armscye and you will have a good hanging sleeve and well fitting coat. 



ARVIDSON COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. 19 



GENERAL REMARKS. 

IN takino; measures do not hurry, take all the time necessary, take all measures 
moderatel}' easy, not tight, if measures are taken correctly and applied accord- 
ing to instructions in this system, it matters not whether the man is square, sloping, 
round or erect shouldered, you will have a well fitting coat. 

See that your work is properly made up, look out for short collars, facings and 
linings. It matters not how well a garment is cut if linings or collar is short the 
garment will not fit. 

The notch in front scye should be 3,/^ of an inch above point 7; in short 
measure correctly, draft carefully and have your work done well and your success 
is assured. 



